Here is an original clock which is connected to your WIFI network. In addition to displaying the time, it also displays the day, date, month, temperature and humidity. I only used a few ports for this project, so you can install other sensors to make it something more complex. Residential electrical wiring is copper wire with a diameter of 1.5mm (approximately AWG15). It’s very difficult to do something straight with this big electric wire, but I’ve made some templates for you to make it easier for you.
*** Note that it has several libraries to install and you must also install the card manager URL before programming the ESP8266. ***
You must click on “File” then on “Preference”.
Next to “Additional card manager URL” add this line which is between the quotes “https://dl.espressif.com/dl/package_esp32_index.json, http://arduino.esp8266.com/stable/ package_esp8266com_index.json “with that you will be able to add the ESP32 and ESP8266 boards, but for this project we only need the ESP8266.
Choose the server for the time synchronization, then you need to choose the correct “Time Zone” for your region. It is currently configured for Quebec.
Remove the two slashes (//) that are opposite your region and put some on the line where there was none.
In Europe it should look like this:
const int timeZone = 1; // Central European Time
// const int timeZone = -5; // Eastern Standard Time (USA)
// const int timeZone = -4; // Eastern Daylight Time (USA)
// const int timeZone = -8; // Pacific Standard Time (USA)
// const int timeZone = -7; // Pacific Daylight Time (USA)
To be printed
Download the file to print directly.
You can also go to Thingiverse for download.
Before choosing the parts to print for your project, you must look at the first pin of the screen, in this way, you will print the correct model.
Here we have two types of SSD1306, one has GND on the first pin and the other has voltage (VCC) on the first pin.
The “GND” on the first pin is model2 and the “VCC” is model1.
Here you have the parts to print for model1.
Using these parts, you are going to be able to do straight wiring.
Here you have the parts to print for model2.
Using these parts you will be able to do straight wiring.
For this project it is necessary to use a copper wire with a diameter of 1.5mm (approximately AWG 15)
Take the electrical wire and bend it 90 degrees, choose a jig, then place the copper wire on the jig and mark with a felt-tip pen where you want to bend your wire. Bend the wire 90 degrees in the direction of the template, then put the wire in the template and cut both ends to get the correct length.
If you decide to remove the sensor as in the picture, then you will have to install a 10k resistor on pins 1 and 2 otherwise there is already a 10k resistor on the circuit.
Solder the wire to D5, then solder the other two wires to 3V3 and GND, then solder the temperature sensor.
For this project it is possible to install two types of temperature sensors, DHT11 and DHT22. The temperature sensor installed in the photo is the DHT11, the less expensive of the two.
How are they different?
DHT11: -20 to 60 ℃
DHT22: -40 to 80
DHT11: ± 2%
DHT22: ± 0.5%
DHT11: 5 to 95% RH
DHT22: 0 to 100% RH
DHT11: ± 5%
DHT22: ± 2%
DHT11: $ 5.00
DHT22: $ 10.00
The DHT22 outperforms the DHT11 in every aspect, from temperature range to temperature accuracy, from humidity range to humidity accuracy.
The only downside to the DHT22 is, of course, its slightly higher price tag, but you’re paying for the best specs.