Filament dryer

Here is a project that may be a little complicated, but if you follow all the steps, then I think this project will be very useful for you.

Why make a filament dryer. Well, we all know that wet filament is difficult to print, for example nylon that stores a lot of moisture in a very short time. Even if you print with the PLA, sometimes you leave it on the shelf for a long time, so the print result is not always satisfactory because of the moisture accumulated in the filament.

Here you have the chance to make your own low-cost filament dryer.

IMPORTANT is an assembly that is at your risk, be sure to take the right parts.


To print

Assembling the dryer

It is important to have a power supply no bigger than 115mm x 50mm x 30mm, but in terms of height it can be higher than 30mm. Even a laptop power supply can do the trick, it’s just that you’re going to need two voltage regulators, because most laptops run on the 19 volts.

Here’s an example of what you need at a minimum.

The 12-volt power wire and the 120/220-volt power connector should be lowered

Cut and strip the power cable

Pass the power cable through the hole at the back of the case

Weld one of the two wires where the connector was, then weld a 15 cm wire on the other side of the connector, then another 15 cm wire on the other end of your power cable.

Install a black wire on the negative output and a red thread on the positive output of the power supply 12 volts, the wires have a length of about 10 cm.

Putting silicone generously inside the case at the place reserved for power supply, then pushing it into the silicone, it is best to let it lay for a period of 24 hours before continuing the next steps.

Install two clamps on the power cable.

Install the hotend V6 head holder

Put the fan 12 volts. You’re going to need two 20mm M4 screws.

Remove thermistance.

Install the hotend V6 head exactly as pictured.

Now you have to install the DHT11 temperature sensor diagonally near the hotend, then put some glue to prevent it from moving or falling.

Connect to the DHT11 temperature sensor and pass the wire through the hole next to the power cable.

You also have to install the other DHT11 temperature sensor, the screw is a 5mm M3, then install the wire at three strands of 35 cm, put some glue in the corner to hold it in place, then pass the wire in the hole and below, there is another hole near the hotend, pass the wire in that hole too.

Install the screen, the screws are 7 mm M2.

Cut a 15 cm long wire and then install it on the screw in the center of the relay and slide the relay next to the fan and then enter one of the two wires of the hotend on the same side as in the photo (so that it has no contact when the relay is not powered by the arduino).

Put some glue under the relay.

Still a little glue underneath the DC converter, then stick it perpendicularly with the relay.

Be careful to install the converter on the right side because there is an in and out.

As for the arduino nano, I chose to weld the pins on top because I prefer to put small connectors, but you can weld your wires directly on the hardware nano.

One way or another you still have to stick it and place it in its location as in the photo.

You can install the LED and switch.

Weld the wires from the output of the 12-volt power supply with the fan wires to enter from the DC converter. Be careful to respect polarity.

Weld the wire installed earlier on the screw of the center of the relay on the positive 12-volt power terminal, then the other wire of the V6 hotend on the negative terminal of the 12-volt power supply. See in the photo.

Here’s the crimping clip I use for almost all my crimps.


Install a 12 mm wire four strands for the screen and then a 14 mm wire three strands for the relay.

Weld a resistance of 330 ohms on the LED (cathode) and a 12 mm wire on the other pin {-} (anode).

Weld a 10K resistance with a 15 mm wire together on one of the switch’s two pins and a 15 mm wire at the end of the resistance that will join the other negative 5-volt wires.

you have to weld a 15 mm wire on the other pin of the switch that will connect to the D8 pin of the arduino nano.

Twist and weld all the positive 5 volt threads together and all the negative threads together

fils positifs 5 volts ensemble et tous les fils négatifs ensemble

Connect the positive 5-volt wires on the 3-volt output of the arduino nano and then connect the negative wires on the GND of the arduino nano.

Refer to the diagram to connect your wires to the hardino nano.

It is very likely that the configuration of the pins of your electronic parts are different from the scheme be vigilant.

You don’t have to connect wires right away on this part of the DC converter, because you have to adjust the output to 5 volts.

Place the multimeter sensors on the positive terminal and on the negative terminal of the DC converter output, then turn the screw until you have 5 volts.

Once the DC converter is well adjusted, all that remains is to connect the 5-volt – on the “VIN” pin of the arduino nano and the negative {-} on the “GND” pin of the arduino nano.

Install the cover below, personally I installed four rubber feet to keep stability.

You can customize with a little paint.


You need this file to program the nano arduino.

Now you have to click tool then put the right communication port (eg COM5) and choose the right type of card (Arduino Nano). You need the five bookstores opposite the arrows, to find out how to install them, check out the two illustrations below.

Click on “Croquis — > Include a Library”

If you don’t see the bookstore in the list, then you have to include it by clicking “Manage libraries”, in the search bar you have to enter the name of the bookstore, then you just have to install it.

The stem for filament supports is made for different type of coil.

Install your filament.

Close the lid.

You also have the option to put a quick connect adapter.

The left button is to stop the hotend from heating, it is best to stop the hotend when you have finished using a filament dryer so as not to have too much heat in the small heating part.

Here the display is on. I ran the filament dryer for three days in a row (72 hours) to make sure everything was fine.

Enjoyed the Article? Share it!